Yerevan, Armenia

Overview:

A landlocked country with Turkey to the west, Georgia to the north, and Azerbaijan to the east, Armenia boasts a history longer than most European countries.  After independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, Armenia quickly became drawn into a bloody conflict with Azerbaijan over the mainly Armenian Nagorno-Karabakh region.  One of the earliest Christian civilizations, Armenia's first churches were founded in the fourth century. In later centuries, it frequently oscillated between Byzantine, Persian, Mongol or Turkish control, as well as periods of independence. Opposition leader Nikol Pashinyan was elected prime minister by parliament in May 2018 after he spearheaded weeks of mass protests against the ruling party, transforming the country's political landscape.  He had piled pressure on the ruling Republican Party through an unprecedented campaign of civil disobedience, leading to the shock resignation of veteran leader Serzh Sargsyan, a week after he shifted to the newly-empowered role of prime minister after serving for 10 years as president.  Opposition leader Nikol Pashinyan was elected prime minister by parliament in May 2018 after he spearheaded weeks of mass protests against the ruling party, transforming the country's political landscape.  

Source:  BBC Country Profile

One of the world's oldest civilizations dating back to 782 B.C., Armenia once included Mount Ararat, which biblical tradition identifies as the mountain that Noah's ark rested on after the flood. It was the first country in the world to officially embrace Christianity as its religion (c. A.D. 300).  Armenian empire reached its height and became one of the most powerful in Asia, stretching from the Caspian to the Mediterranean seas. Throughout most of its long history, however, Armenia has been invaded by a succession of empires. Over the centuries Armenia was conquered by Greeks, Romans, Persians, Byzantines, Mongols, Arabs, Ottoman Turks, and Russians. 

Source:  CIA World Factbook

American Embassy Yerevan:

The inspection took place in Yerevan, Armenia, between June 9 and 27, 2014 with the same team going strong.  The OIG Steve Linnick and our OIG/ISP boss, Sandy Lewis, visited us while we were there.  I don’t remember much from their visit except Sandy’s interest in our work and actually helping me with a memcon. I’m sure that we had a nice lunch or dinner with the OIG but don’t recall.  We didn’t have a team farewell dinner in Yerevan as customary.  Instead, Carol had a pre hotwash lunch for the team at the District Commons near George Washington University.  It was July 14 and, I don’t recall, so I must have already left D.C.

The Ambassador was very much into Armenian society.  He spearheaded an unofficial embassy wide community service organization called “Helping Hands” but, given its unchartered status exposed the embassy to certain liability risks and concerns about the use of U.S. Government property.  The DCM was lacking in exercising his management responsibilities.  The RSO received a vote of no confidence and departed post just before we arrived.  He had only been at post since August 2013.  It was unfortunate because of the investment made to have the RSO assigned with not only the travel and assignment but the training, including language that was expended to get him out to post.  A TDY RSO was assigned in the interim until a new person could be assigned.  I had to request the DGHR Channel cable announcing the departure of the RSO from my contacts in OIG for our security inspector Barry who had his hands full with staffing issues in security. While we were there seven of the eight SD employees and supervisor were terminated. The Management Officer was Michael McKeown who is now in Bamako as Management Counselor.  The FMO/HRO was Christy Livingston who was very helpful, despite being over worked in HR and preparing to depart at the end of her tour on June 19. 

Findings:

Some of the recommendations in the OIG report were:

• To request a formal approval from the Office of the Legal Adviser and the Bureau of European and Eurasian Affairs for the Ambassador to participate in Helping Hands.
• Provide customer service training to International Cooperative Administrative Support Services (ICASS) employees review performance standards.
• Conduct an annual review of position descriptions as required.
• Require the ICASS customers to certify the receipt of services in Ariba.
• Provide information sessions on the procurement process to customers and staff.
• Determine whether to cancel or revise the current memorandum of understanding with Globe Travel Services.
• To implement procedures to collect overpayments of post allowances.

After the departure of the OIG team the Yerevan Employee Association (YEA) accountant wrote an email to the OIG inspectors requesting assistance in getting his severance pay following his departure.  Since it wasn’t our role to intercede in this case, we referred the issue to the Management Officer and the YEA board president. 

Highlights:

Armenian History Museum and Art Gallery on Republic Square

Government House with Clock Tower on Republic Square previously called
Lenin Square with Statue but was dismantled in 1990. 

Yerevan Cascade with giant stairway, seven-level with escalators in the interior.  Includes museum, water fountains and gardens with panoramic view of Yerevan and Mt. Ararat. 

Water Fountains at the Cascade

Khanjyan Mural in the Cascade Museum

From the 16th century through World War I, major portions of Armenia were controlled by their most brutal invader, the Ottoman Turks, under whom the Armenians experienced discrimination, religious persecution, heavy taxation, and armed attacks. In response to Armenian nationalist stirrings, the Turks massacred thousands of Armenians in 1894 and 1896. The most horrific massacre took place in April 1915 during World War I, when the Turks ordered the deportation of the Armenian population to the deserts of Syria and Mesopotamia. According to the majority of historians, between 600,000 and 1.5 million Armenians were murdered or died of starvation. The Armenian massacre is considered the first genocide of the 20th century. 

In 2010 a team of evangelical Christian explorers claim they've found the remains of Noah's ark beneath snow and volcanic debris on Turkey’s Mount Ararat.  Some archaeologists and historians are taking the latest claim that Noah's ark has been found about as seriously as they have past ones—which is to say not very.

Mother Armenia high above Yerevan

Statue of William Saroyan Oscar winner and Pulitzer Prize recipient William Saroyan, who gained world fame with his classic book "The Daring Young Man on the Flying Trapeze" (1934), was born in California to Armenak and Takoohi Saroyan, survivors of the 1915 Armenian Genocide perpetrated by Turks in the Ottoman Empire.  In 1939 "The Time of Your Life" was staged and in 1943 his MGM screenplay "The Human Comedy" won the Academy Award for Best Writing Original Story.

Inside the Cathedral of St. Gregory the Illuminator 

Geghard Monastery built in 1215 partially carved out of the mountain.  Called the monastery of the spear which wounded Jesus at the crucifixion which was brought to Armenia.

Inside the cave of the monastery carved in stone two chained lions with an eagle grasping a calf with claws.

Priest speaking during service in the monastery

The Temple of Garni is a first century Hellenic temple near Garni, Armenia. It is the only pagan temple in Armenia that survived the Christianization of Armenia in 301 AD.

Azrat Gorge below Garni Temple

Fish Farm below Azrat Gorge raising trout and sturgeon

Grilled Sturgeon

Dancers at concert

The landlocked mountainous region of Nagorno-Karabakh is the subject of an unresolved dispute between Azerbaijan, in which it lies, and its ethnic Armenian majority, backed by neighboring Armenia.  In 1988, towards the end of Soviet rule, Azerbaijani troops and Armenian secessionists began a bloody war which left the de facto independent state in the hands of ethnic Armenians when a truce was signed in 1994.

Fountain at the Grand Tulip Hotel

Barry, Mike and Colwell visit St. Astavotsatsin (Holy Mother of God) Church built in 1662 at Khor Virap Monastery

Portal to the Chapel built in 642 AD with the underground pit where St. Gregory
the Illuminator was imprisoned for 13 years

Mt. Ararat in Turkey 12 km from the Armenian Border 

Noravank Monastery 13th century church

Portal to St. Karapet Church with facade below of the Virgin Mary with Jesus and
Archangel Gabriel and Daniel  Above the face of Jesus with the eyes of a Mongol

St. Karapet Church built in 1216, damaged in the earthquake of 1931 and rebuilt

Armenian appetizers Passus Dolma (Pickled cabbage leave wrapped with beans, chicpeas, lentils and Bulgar with fig on top).  Eggplant rolls with ground walnuts, sour cream, raisin or fruit and hot peppers.   

Vernissage or Flea Market with lots of jewelry, handicrafts, antiques, books and paintings